An unforgettable trip to Caño Island

told by Bethan (Resident Biologist from the University of Cambridge)

My very first day with Golfo Dulce Retreat was an unusual one. I arrived in the middle of a few days’ break between guests – a rare occurrence! To make the most of this time, we took the opportunity to visit Isla del Caño, on the other side of Corcovado National Park on the Osa Peninsula. This is one of the amazing trips offered by Golfo Dulce Retreat to its guests - not surprisingly it’s one of their most popular destinations.

Isla del Caño (Caño Island) is renowned for its marine biological diversity and crystal clear waters, an exceptional combination for snorkelling and scuba diving. The island is set 20 km off the Osa Peninsula in the Pacific Ocean and can be reached from Drake Bay on the Osa Peninsula. Its designation as a biological reserve protects the marine life as well as the migrant birds that stopover on the island itself. Various operators offer trips to tourists in Costa Rica to visit Isla del Caño from as far as Uvita and Manuel Antonio to experience this for themselves. With this in mind, we were lucky to be able to easily visit by simply crossing the peninsula!

Our day started early, as we had to be at Drake Bay on the other side of the Osa Peninsula by 7.30am. My jetlag turned out to be an advantage. With my body still running on UK time, I was quite comfortable with the 5:30am departure from Golf Dulce Retreat. We weren't alone at this time: we spotted an opossum, a nocturnal mammal, on the short walk down to the beach (still the best view I have had of an opossum during my stay here!). It was still dark enough to see the last sparks of the night’s bioluminescence in the wake of the boat as we cut across the otherwise still and glassy water. Nearing the village of Puerto Jimenez on the other side of the Golfo Dulce, we were treated to a stunning sunrise as the day dawned. The dusky pink and soft yellow glow unfolding over the gulf gave way to bold orange rays piercing through trees and fields on the peninsula, while we completed the journey by car.

Spectacular sunrise from our boat

Early morning car trip through the jungles of the Osa Peninsula

We were met on Drake Bay by our guides and got settled on the boat that would take us to the island. We didn’t stay settled for long, because soon into the boat ride we saw a mating pair of sea turtles! The island itself was a classic image of paradise.

Mating sea turtles

Arrival on Caño Island

We had two stops for snorkelling, separated by a short break on a wide sandy beach. The sights underwater were impressive from the outset. Splashing down into the water for the first time, we were greeted by bright corals and innumerable colourful fish.

Led by our snorkelling guide, we zig-zagged between outcrops of coral, each time stopping to marvel at the marine life. My favourite part of snorkelling is diving down to the level of the reef. Still jet-lagged and tired from several days of travel, I felt almost as if I were in a dream. The vibrancy of the colours was surreal – not to mention that swimming underwater happens to be a recurring dream of mine! 

Surprisingly soon, we came across a turtle coasting alongside the corals. Calm and unhurried, it seemed to tolerate our presence – at least, for long enough to take those must-have gopro videos, before it glided away. Further exciting sightings quickly followed. Out on the sandy stretches between outcrops of corals were two giant stingrays. They were at least two metres from tip to tail: when I swam down next to one, it seemed to be considerably longer than myself. Up close, I could more clearly discern the edges of its fins and appreciate its size, since its camouflage was very convincing from the surface! I was excited to be close enough to see the little movements of the gills as it breathed – it was otherwise completely still – until I realised it was probably best to have some distance between myself and that menacing tail...

Encounter with a hawksbill turtle

A two-metre long sting ray sitting on the sandy bottom

We saw several more turtles, one even treating us to a show of bobbing its head out of the water to take gulps of air, before sinking back down away from the surface. At a deeper point, our guide pointed out two white-tipped reef sharks. They were nestled in a steep sandy crevice in a rock, at a depth of several metres. Peaceful, they barely stirred when she brazenly dived down close to them, to better capture their striking appearance with our gopros.

Crystal clear waters

Another hawksbill turtle!

White-tipped reef sharks sitting on the sea bottom

After the underwater splendour, lunch was a simple but relaxing affair on Playa San Josecito, a beach a short boat ride away from our snorkelling spots. 

Then it was back to the boat to start the three-part return journey. It seemed a shorter journey than in the morning, and quieter too, with everyone resting or consulting the fishes field guide to check which species we had seen. It seemed so much had happened in in the day that it was disconcerting to realise it was only 4pm when we arrived back at the Retreat. A busy, brilliant start to my time in Costa Rica!